Feeding Sheep and Goats: What Works for Us
Feeding livestock isn’t just about throwing out a bale of hay — it’s about meeting the needs of your animals through the seasons, based on what’s growing, what they’re doing and what the land can support at the time. Over the years, we’ve figured out a feeding system that works for our setup, balancing pasture, hay and supplements to keep our animals healthy and productive without over complicating it.
Grazing Comes First
Most of the year our sheep and goats are out on pasture. Rotational grazing lets the land rest and regrow between grazing periods, which helps reduce parasite loads, improve soil health and cut down on how much extra feed we need to buy in.
In summer, though, things get more challenging. Pasture growth here depends heavily on irrigation. Without it, most paddocks dry off completely and the risk of overgrazing becomes a real issue. We have some irrigated paddocks that help us manage through the dry spells, but not everyone has that option — and even then, grazing pressure has to be kept in check.
Overgrazing during summer exposes bare dirt, which can lead to dust blowing across the property on hot, windy days. That dust isn’t just annoying — it’s your topsoil, the most nutritious layer, literally blowing away. It also impacts future growth, as you reduce the seed base for annual plants to regenerate in autumn. Keeping ground cover through summer is essential for both soil health and long-term productivity.
When Hay Becomes Essential
When pasture growth slows — usually summer — hay becomes our go-to feed. It’s reliable, easy to store and a solid nutritional base when chosen well.
Here’s how we break it down:
Oaten hay is our standard for adult animals. It’s high in fiber, keeps the rumen working well, and is a solid maintenance feed from late summer through autumn and into winter
Barley hay is coarser than oaten but still palatable and high in fiber, making it great for adult animals. It keeps the rumen working and blends well with richer hays like lucerne
Lucerne (alfalfa) gets added in for growing kids and lambs or during late pregnancy and lactation when energy and protein demands are higher
In general, most hays will do the job — it often comes down to what your animals will actually eat and what’s available in your area. Just steer clear of straw; it’s low in nutrients and best kept for bedding rather than feed.
Keeping Feed Costs Down
Hay can get expensive — especially if you’re buying it all in. If you’ve got the space and conditions to grow your own, it’s absolutely worth doing.
We grow our own hay here. We fortunately have got the gear to seed and spray ourselves and then we outsource the hay making side - mowing, raking and baling - to a contractor. He takes a share of hay for his contribution. It’s a fair trade and it means we’re not out of pocket. We also have spare shed space to keep most of the hay out of the rain, which helps maintain its quality.
This setup gives us more control over what we’re feeding — no hidden nasties, no nutrient loss from long travel or poor storage. If you’ve got the paddocks and basic equipment, this can make a big difference in keeping your feed bill manageable.
What to Look for When Buying Hay
If you don’t grow your own hay, knowing what to look for when buying is just as important. Here are a few things to keep in mind:
Freshness: Make sure the hay smells fresh and isn’t dusty or moldy. Hay that’s too old or stored poorly can lose its nutritional value and even pose a risk to your livestock’s health
Leafy and soft: Choose hay that’s green, soft and leafy. Stalky, coarse hay is harder for sheep and goats to chew and it’s less palatable
Free of contaminants: Avoid hay that contains weeds, make sure it’s from a reputable source
Storage: If you’re storing hay for an extended period, keep it in a dry, ventilated area. Hay that gets damp can develop mold and cause respiratory issues for your animals
How Much Hay Do Sheep and Goats Need?
A good rule of thumb? Look in the paddock. If there’s grazing options are low and the hay you’ve put out is gone, it’s time to add more.
Take note of how long it takes your animals to finish a bale — if it lasts seven days, plan to refill it in about seven days. Every group is different, and seasons will shift how much they eat.
During winter, even when pasture is abundant, scours can become an issue — often caused by too much lush, wet green feed. Hay helps balance things out by providing a dry roughage source, supporting gut health even when nutrition isn’t lacking.
Lactating females and young animals will naturally eat more, so you’ll likely need to increase both the quantity and quality of hay at those times.
Introducing Hay to Your Animals
If your animals aren’t used to eating hay, introduce it gradually. Start with small amounts and increase over time to avoid digestive upset. It’s also a good idea to offer hay alongside fresh water to help with digestion.
Hay Feeders: Repurposing IBC Containers
One of the ways we make hay feeding more efficient and sustainable on the farm is by repurposing IBC containers into hay feeders. These large, sturdy containers keep hay dry and prevent it from being trampled on or spoiled by the animals. This simple yet effective solution helps reduce hay waste and keeps feeding areas cleaner.
If you’re interested in more ideas for reusing, recycling, and repurposing materials around the farm, check out our upcoming blog post where we dive into several creative ways we’ve given new life to old items!
When Hay Isn’t Enough
While hay is a great supplemental feed, it might not meet all the nutritional needs of your livestock. If your sheep and goats are losing weight, look sluggish or have poor coats, it could be a sign their hay is lacking essential nutrients. You may need to add grain, mineral supplements or protein-rich feeds like lucerne hay to fill the gap.